The Pacific Northwest has a thing for loop trails circumnavigating volcanoes, and the iconic Timberline Trail is arguably the most accessible of these classic hikes. It’s shorter than the coveted Wonderland Trail around Rainier (and much easier to get a permit for) and more approachable than the rugged Loowit Trail around St. Helens.

The 40 mile Timberline Trail circles Mount Hood, an impressive glacier-capped behemoth, offering views from so many angles that you might actually get tired of stopping to gawk. It offers plentiful camping and water, zero-hassle transportation and permits, and challenging terrain to keep even experienced backpackers on our toes.

You can backpack the Timberline Trail with just a short drive from Portland, even without a car! The logistics literally couldn’t get any easier. Naturally this makes the Timberline a very popular trail. But the 40 mile circumnavigation, usually done in 3-4 days, still feels scenic and dramatic.

I’ve been wanting to backpack the Timberline Trail for years, and in late September 2023 I was finally able to sneak in a late-season hike during a road trip through the Pacific Northwest. My husband and I hiked around Mt. Hood in three days and two nights, making the most of two gloriously sunny late-season days (and one cold and rainy day).

This guide shares our pictures and observations, along with essential planning information for the Timberline Trail as of 2023, including the latest on the previously closed Yocum Ridge blowdown section.

Fun fact: Mt. Hood is considered the Oregon volcano most likely to erupt next! Don’t worry though, the odds are still very low and scientists are keeping an eye on it (right…?).

Related: 6 Backpacking Loop Trails in the Pacific Northwest

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Timberline Trail at a Glance

Map and Navigation

The Timberline Trail, also referred to as trail #600, is well signed at most junctions. Still, a GPS navigation app or device is useful when finding your way into and out of the gullies, and important for general safety in case you lose the trail for any reason.

I use the AllTrails app with the premium membership that provides offline navigation; don’t expect to have phone service on the trail. Gaia GPS is another popular app with similar pricing and functionality.

If you’d like to carry a paper map – recommended as a backup to your electronic device especially for solo hikers – the National Geographic Trails Illustrated is a good one. We chose to not carry a paper map on this trip because we hiked together as a pair and both had the route downloaded to our phones, serving as each other’s backup.

When to Hike

The Timberline Trail is a summer hike. It’s usually doable from July through September, though that window varies from year to year. The biggest considerations are weather, lingering snow, and water crossings.

Lingering snow: The slopes of Mt. Hood are typically under snow throughout winter and spring, and after especially snowy winters the higher elevations may hold snow well into July. If you’re thinking of hiking in June or early July, check for recent trail reports on AllTrails to see how the melt is progressing.

Water crossings: The Timberline Trail crosses many gullies and glacial streams in its circumnavigation of Mt. Hood, and while snow is melting up high those streams and rivers flow fast and deep. Water crossings are a bigger issue earlier in the season, when some may be difficult and dangerous. By mid to late August most years the water crossings have calmed down. Don’t overlook this issue — it’s all too easy to assume you’ll just figure it out, only to find yourself stopped in your tracks by a violent glacial river you can’t safely cross. Again, check trail reports on AllTrails to understand current conditions and learn how to cross as safely as possible (see below).

Weather: You should be prepared for rain or even snow at any time, as the weather on Mt. Hood is notoriously changeable. By late September or early October the chances of rainfall increase, average temperatures drop (expect below-freezing nights), and early storms may dust the trail with snow. Check the weather forecast before heading out!

Other considerations: Wildflowers are at their best earlier, throughout July or August. Mosquitoes are also more plentiful during this time. Late-season hikers have fewer daylight hours to hike and more cold dark hours to pass in the tent.

With all that in mind, my ideal time to hike the Timberline Trail would be mid-August on an average snowpack year. This should be late enough for calmer water crossings but still early enough to enjoy warmer weather and longer daylight hours, and maybe some wildflowers.

Our late-season hike, ending on October 1, was borderline. We checked the weather forecast carefully and chose a mostly sunny window, planning the higher and more exposed eastern section for the clearest day. Still, south of Cloud Cap we walked through several inches of snow accumulation from a storm a few days prior. The nights were chilly (below freezing) and long, limiting the amount of daylight hours available to hike. On the bright side, most water crossings were simple rock hops and the trail was less crowded than usual (though still far from empty).

How Many Days?

Most backpackers hike the Timberline Trail in three or four days. A five day itinerary would work too, allowing time for leisurely mornings or afternoons at camp and perhaps some side trips. There’s plenty of water on the Timberline Trail, so shorter days are feasible without needing to dry camp.

We hiked the Timberline Trail in three full days and two nights. This required some focus; the shorter daylight hours of late September didn’t leave much extra time for lounging at camp, and cold temperatures made it harder to get moving early in the morning. In the height of summer I think this pace would have felt a bit more leisurely, but those looking for a lot of time at camp might still prefer a four or five day itinerary.

Access Trailheads

Timberline Lodge

The most common access trailhead is at Timberline Lodge on the south side of the loop, about a 1:15 hour drive from Portland via entirely paved roads. There’s a large parking lot with free overnight parking. It’s even accessible by public transport from the city or PDX airport using a combination of metro lines and the Mt. Hood Express.

Overnight parking is permitted at Timberline Lodge, but we found it a bit confusing. Whatever you do, don’t park at the top-most lot designated for lodge guests; park in either the main or overflow lower lots. Both these lots are dotted with an intimidating number of “no overnight parking” signs, and it’s unclear exactly which areas they apply to. I asked inside and was told to park in the overflow lot despite the signs, and this is what we did, carefully choosing a spot as far as possible from any visible sign. This worked out fine and we saw many other hikers doing it. If in doubt, ask inside the day lodge for the best overnight parking location.

Several other trailheads offer access to the Timberline Trail with a short additional hike, including Top Spur and Ramona Falls. Here’s a map of the Timberline Trail showing the two main access trailheads plus the major water crossings:

Which Direction to Hike

The Timberline Trail loop works well in either direction, and I suggest making your choice based on which trailhead you choose and how your planned itinerary intersects with the weather forecast and water crossings.

The eastern section of the loop, south of Cloud Cap Saddle, is the highest and most exposed portion of the loop. I suggest planning the eastern section for the day you’re most likely to have good weather. It can get nasty up there in a storm, and you’ll want clear skies to enjoy the views. Aesthetically speaking I liked working up to this scenic and dramatic section rather than starting with it.

Water crossings are another consideration, especially early in the season. Glacial streams are lower and calmer in the mornings, so you might want to plan some of the more notorious crossings (Newton, Coe, Muddy Fork, Sandy and especially White) for early in the day.

We hiked clockwise from Timberline Lodge, mainly because the weather forecast called for rain on the first day and sun thereafter and we wanted to save the highest terrain for good weather. Water crossings weren’t an issue since we hiked in late September.

Camping

Dispersed camping is readily available along most of the Timberline Trail. The only requirements are related to Leave No Trace:

• Camp in established sites on durable surfaces
• No camping in meadows and wetlands
• No camping immediately next to Ramona Falls (sites are available nearby)

You’ll find established sites fairly often, especially along the PCT section. You’d be hard-pressed to not find a site every couple of miles, though in peak season you’ll have other backpackers to compete with. You’ll find clusters of sites near most major water sources and plenty of dry sites tucked away in between. Some sites are highly scenic while others are more utilitarian.

Don’t feel limited to those though; there are many others. In hindsight we didn’t pick the most scenic places to camp, simply stopping where we were when the time was right. If you have a more leisurely itinerary you might consider planning your camp locations to include some of the great options above.

Tents are the most common type of shelter you’ll see on the Timberline Trail, but tarps and bivvies work too. Hammock campers will find plenty of trees on all sections except the exposed area south of Cloud Camp Campground. The treeline is a little over 6000 feet here, and above that the few campsites are exposed and treeless.

There is one pit toilet on the entire Timberline Trail at Cloud Cap Campground, and Timberline Lodge has indoor restrooms. Otherwise, you’ll be doing your business outdoors. Make sure you know how to responsibly poop in the woods so we don’t turn this lovely trail into a public toilet.

Suggested Itineraries

Food Storage

There are black bears on Mt. Hood, but they are scared of humans and you’re unlikely to encounter them. Chipmunks and critters are more of a potential threat to your food. Still, it’s important to store food responsibly to prevent the emergence of “problem bears” like we have in other areas.

What this means for food storage: a standard bear hang, Ursack Major, or sleeping with your food are all valid options. We slept with our food in our tarp, but if that makes you nervous an Ursack Major is a good option.

Drinking Water

First thing first: definitely filter or treat all your drinking water on the Timberline Trail! This is a high-use area and drinking directly from streams is asking for Giardia.

Water sources are abundant on the Timberline, even late in the season. We never needed to carry more than 2 liters at a time, though we had 3.5 liters of capacity each, just in case.

We used a Sawyer Squeeze filter combined with a CNOC Vecto bag as a gravity filter setup. This is a convenient setup for mostly clear water sources and two people sharing a filter. For more on the pros and cons of various methods, see How to Carry Water While Backpacking and Best Water Filters for Backpacking.

I tried a new water carrying system on this trip: the Smartwater Bottle drink tube from One Bottle Hydration. I’ve long been a hydration bladder fan since I can’t reach bottles in my pack’s side pockets, but this system is the best of both worlds and my new go-to.

Water Crossings

The Timberline Trail is notorious for its water crossings. In its circumnavigation of Mt. Hood the trail crosses a number of deep gullies carrying glacial streams, and these can be intimidating and dangerous while snow is melting fast up high. Even in late August, especially on a high snow year, some hikers find them difficult.

Which crossings are the trickiest? The forest service has this to say: “Newton, Coe, Muddy Fork, Sandy and White Rivers are typically the most challenging fords but are typically not more than knee deep.” Many people also think Eliot is a tough crossing. Here’s a map of the Timberline Trail showing these crossings:

I haven’t seen it mentioned elsewhere, but personally I was surprised by how close the Heather Creek crossing (just south of Newton Creek) passed to the top of a dangerous waterfall! Tread carefully here.

Be sure to take your time finding the best crossing; it may not be where the trail is. Look for cairns up or downstream, and keep in mind that the best option might change depending on time of day. Look for wider and slower areas to wade across.

Glacial streams are calmest and lowest first thing in the morning, so you may need to adjust your itinerary if you come to a difficult crossing late in the day. I read one trip report on AllTrails (a great resource for gauging current water crossing difficulty) from hikers who decided to camp before crossing the White River and save it for the morning, extending their trip by a night. And this was in late August!

When we hiked the Timberline Trail in late September, almost all crossings were easy rock hops or log balances. In some cases it may be safer to just step into the water rather than attempt a sketchy jump or balance. Hiking poles are very helpful for water crossings and I would highly recommend them for this trail.

Yocum Ridge Blowdown Bypass

In September 2020, a historic windstorm toppled an extraordinary number of large trees along the hillside below Yocum Ridge, utterly destroying a section of the Timberline Trail on the northwest side of the loop. This section begins near the Yocum Ridge Trail junction around mile 10 (clockwise from Timberline Lodge) and lasts for about a mile until Muddy Fork.

This section is now open and passable, and we hiked it in late September 2023. Though it’s slow-going and requires a bit of scrambling over and under dozens of downed trees, I found it very engaging and interesting. The sheer scale of nature’s force is incredible to see as you look at the massive root balls ripped from the ground. The countless hours of trail work that have made this section passable (and all with hand tools, since motorized equipment is not allowed in wilderness areas!) are on display and very worthy of appreciation.

There are some steep slippery hillsides and plenty of trees to clamber over and under. If you’re carrying a large heavy pack and don’t like this kind of thing, you might want to detour around on the PCT or a combination of the PCT and Ramona Falls Trail. Here’s what that detour would look like:

If you take that detour, I also recommend you hike around the southern side of Bald Mountain for the best views of Mt. Hood, using the Timberline Trail Cutoff to cross to the north side as shown on the map above.

All that said, I actually suggest that hikers who feel up to the challenge (and aren’t carrying huge packs) take the original trail as long as it continues to be safely passable. It’s really interesting!

Permits for the Timberline Trail

Between May 15 – October 15 a free self-issued permit is needed to hike the Timberline Trail (or anywhere within the Mt. Hood Wilderness). There are no quotas currently; the permit is simply about tracking trail usage and informing hikers of the regulations. Let’s all make sure to follow those regulations to make sure this popular trail remains quota-free.

You can self-issue your own permit at various trailhead portals. You’ll find a box with blank forms and pencils which you use to fill out your information. Keep the “visitor copy,” pop the other section in the permit slot, and you’re good to go.

When starting from Timberline Lodge the permit station is down the trail a bit from where the loop starts (heading clockwise). At Cloud Cap it’s right where the trail leaves from the campground.

Other Trail Users

Trail Overview by Section

Timberline Trail to Ramona Falls

There are several short connectors from Timberline Lodge to the trail. The route mapped above follows a short paved road uphill to intersect with the PCT. Turn left for clockwise, and shortly you’ll come across the self-issue permit station. The next few miles of trail are well-maintained, mostly downhill, and relatively fast.

You’ll cross a few gullies in this section, but mostly the trail is forested and punctuated by occasional views uphill to Mt. Hood. It was foggy and rainy when we hiked this section, which was atmospheric in its own way but we also missed out on some good views. The Zig Zag River and Sandy Rivers are the two main water crossings in this section.

About 10 miles in you’ll run out of downhill and arrive at Ramona Falls, a popular day hiking area. There’s a nice bridge (the only one on the Timberline Trail) and close-up views of the waterfall. You can camp in this area if sufficiently far from the falls; look for signs marking where you should and shouldn’t camp.

Ramona Falls to Cloud Cap Campground

Leaving Ramona Falls, you’ll start the blowdown section (unless you detour around it on the PCT – details above). This section was closed after the devastation that occurred in Sept 2020, but is now open albeit a bit slow-going. When you reach Muddy Forks – a braided river with several crossings – the hardest part is done. There are a few good campsites near Muddy Forks if you’re done for the day.

Near Bald Mountain be sure to look behind you for stunning views of Mt. Hood! The next section of trail traverses some gorgeous alpine meadows as well as eerie skeleton forests (fires? beetles?).

Some of the best camping on the trail is in this northern part of the loop at Cairn Basin, Wy’east Basin, and Elk Cove. Parts of this section can also be busy with day hikers, but it’s hard to fault them when you see how pretty it is.

Continuing from Elk Cove the trail squiggles in and out of a number of deep drainages. Eventually you’ll cross Coe and Eliot creeks and begin the climb up to Cloud Cap saddle where the paid campground awaits. There are a few decent (dry) campsites a couple miles before the descent to Eliot Creek, but I only recall one or two small sites right near the crossing.

Cloud Cap to Timberline Lodge

Leaving Cloud Cap Campground the real climbing begins, at first steeply up to treeline and then more gradually across the exposed volcanic flanks of Mt. Hood. You’ll find a few campsites in the forest after leaving the campground, and then none until near the top (and these are very exposed).

This section, the climb to the highest point of the Timberline Trail at 7340 feet, may hold snow later in summer or be dusted by early storms in September (or, occasionally, any time throughout the summer). This is the only section of the trail that stays above treeline consistently, so enjoy the views!

Trees return about halfway down the descent. Once back in the forest there is some lovely camping, though water may or may not be found nearby. Cross a series of streams and gullies en route to the Mt. Hood Meadows ski area, where you’ll traverse the grass-carpeted ski runs and cross more small streams. As you cross Newton Creek there are a number of lovely campsites on both sides.

Eventually you’ll take the final plunge to the White River, which can be challenging to cross during times of peak snowmelt. Once you make it across it’s a steep climb back to the Timberline Lodge, and then you’re done! Stop into the lodge or drive down the hill to Mt. Hood Brewing Company in Government Camp for the traditional post-hike feast.

Hiking Solo

Timberline Trail vs. Loowit Trail

Backpacking Gear

I always recommend a relatively lightweight backpacking gear setup because it’s more comfortable and fun, and this is certainly true for the Timberline Trail. Steep climbs, downed trees, loose gullies, and water crossings all favor a light pack and nimble footing.

Here are some of the key gear items I use on most backpacking trips, and on the Timberline Trail specifically. For more, see my favorite backpacking gear.

Backpacks: We both carried ULA Circuits. We love them because they’re lightweight, adjustable, and have a very flexible 68 liter capacity. On this short trail we kept them cinched down to a smaller volume, but they also expand to manage 7-day food carries when needed.

Sleep: Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite sleeping pads (warm and light) and Enlightened Equipment Convert quilts with synthetic hoods. The Convert is a great middle ground between a sleeping bag and a lightweight quilt because the full zipper helps prevent drafts in cooler temps.

Shelter: Borah Gear bivvies and a Six Moon Designs Haven tarp. We love this setup for backpacking as a couple because we can set up the bivvies alone on clear nights for a bit more space and stargazing, or we can get cozy in the tarp when more warmth or weather protection is needed. We ended up pitching the tarp every night on the Timberline for rain protection and added warmth.

Shoes: Altra Lone Peak trail running shoes. We’ve both been hiking and running in these for many years and won’t wear anything else. They were more than adequate for the slippery sections of the Timberline and they dry very quickly, so you can keep them on during water crossings.

Cooking: JetBoil MicroMo, super fast at boiling water for rehydrating meals. Snow Peaks titanium mugs for drinks (a luxury item), Sea to Summit collapsible X-Mugs as bowls, Toaks titanium long-handled spoons.

Water: Sawyer Squeeze filter in gravity mode with CNOC Vecto 3 liter dirty bag. Easy and efficient.

Electronics: Garmin InReach Mini, Petzl Actik headlamp, power bank and cables

Other must-have items:

• Hiking poles for balance, both on the trail and during water crossings
• Sunscreen, hat, perhaps arm sleeves or a sun hoodie for the exposed eastern section
• Warm gloves, used extensively during chilly mornings of late September

More Resources

About the Author

Hi there, I’m Alissa, founder of Exploring Wild. I’ve had the pleasure of hiking the Arizona Trail, Colorado Trail, John Muir Trail, Tahoe Rim Trail, and countless shorter amazing trails throughout the US and abroad. I love solitude, big views, and a good lightweight gear setup. Learn more here.

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The post How to Backpack Around Mt. Hood on the Iconic Timberline Trail appeared first on Exploring Wild.